Home//Good Food /March 2019/In This Issue
Good Food |March 2019Welcome to MarchWhat’s better than a Sunday roast? A roast you can cook in just one pan and serve straight from the dish. Be inspired by our food editors’ ideas for classic Sunday centrepieces given exciting new twists, from a Thai green curry roast chicken (p32) to our lamb with hasselback potatoes cover star (p30). Plus, don’t miss our five genius ways to use up leftovers – at BBC Good Food, we’re committed to using every ingredient in our Test Kitchen and know you hate waste as much as we do. So, this month, we’ve also created a family meal plan, with a handy shopping list for five recipes to ensure you won’t be throwing anything away (p59).I was intrigued by a segment on Radio 4’s The Food Programme discussing pampered pets…1 min
Good Food |March 2019Transform waste cooking oilWith several shocking stories of huge ‘fatbergs’ clogging up the UK’s sewers recently, the issue of how to safely dispose of used cooking oil is more pertinent than ever. In fact, Thames Water says it has to clear around 40,000 blockages a year caused by fat and sanitary wipes being put down drains by restaurants and households. We tried a product that offers a solution. Quickshine Deep-Fat Fixer sachets (£3.49, Lakeland) contain a non-toxic powder that, when stirred into used (and slightly cooled) cooking oil, transforms it into an almost-solid block; which can then be easily lifted out and put straight into the bin. Not only does this eliminate the greasy mess of clearing up cooking oil, it also stops oil from being poured down the sink and clogging up…1 min
Good Food |March 201930 mins or less easiest ever midweek mealsSmoky chickpeas on toastSERVES 2 PREP 2 mins COOK 10 mins EASY V* chickpeas only1 tsp olive or vegetable oil, plus a drizzle1 small onion or banana shallot, chopped2 tsp chipotle paste250ml passata400g can chickpeas, drained2 tsp honey2 tsp red wine vinegar2-4 slices good crusty bread2 eggs• Heat1/2 tsp of the oil in a pan. Tip in the onion and cook until soft, about 5-8 mins, then add the chipotle paste, passata, chickpeas, honey and vinegar. Season and bubble for 5 mins.• Toast the bread and fry the eggs in the remaining oil in a frying pan. Drizzle the toast with a little oil, then top with the chickpeas and fried eggs.GOOD TO KNOW healthy • low cal • fibre • 2 of 5-a-dayPER SERVING 423 kcals • fat 15g…7 min
Good Food |March 2019USE IT ALL UP five-night meal planShopping list• 3 onions• 1 head celery• 200g pack sliced kale• 4 large potatoes, or buy more if you want to serve mash with the meatloaf• 1 carrot, or more if you want crudités with the dough balls• whole bulb garlic*• 500g bag frozen peas, or buy 2 bags if you are serving peas with the meatloaf• 100g cooked North Atlantic prawns• 500g beef mince• 250g block butter*• 6 eggs• 77g pack pancetta (freeze one if it’s a 2-pack)• 1 chicken breast, (freeze one if you can only get a 2-pack)• 100g grana padano*• pack cured meat (optional, to serve with the dough balls)• 150g tub natural yogurt• 85g fresh breadcrumbs• 1 low-salt chicken stock cube• 500ml passata with basil• 400g can chopped tomatoes• 500g pack spaghetti*• jar mild curry…7 min
Good Food |March 20195 tips for better sleep1 Eat protein foods that are rich in amino acid tryptophan – this helps boost the sleep-inducing hormone, melatonin. Chicken, turkey, milk, nuts and seeds are all good choices. Combine with rice, pasta or potatoes to help your body get the most benefits.2 The digestion process increases your body’s core temperature, which can disrupt sleep, so eat your evening meal at least two to three hours, and preferably a few hours, before going to bed.3 Reduce your caffeine intake gradually. Try decaffeinated coffee or, better still, caffeine-free drinks like redbush tea. At a minimum, stop drinking caffeinated drinks by 2pm.4 Avoid using computers, tablets and mobiles late in the evening as the light from the screen can have a stimulatory effect, and may affect sleep.5 Build relaxation and exercise into…1 min
Good Food |March 2019MARY’S Mother’s Day DESSERTSMary Berry has written over 70 books and has been teaching people to cook for over 40 years. She’s a judge on Britain’s Best Home Cook, which will be back on BBC Two later this year, and her new series, Mary Berry’s Quick Cooking, starts on BBC One later this month. maryberry.co.ukChocolate cappuccino tartThis recipe has no added sugar, so don’t use a chocolate that has a high percentage of cocoa solids if you prefer a sweeter flavour.SERVES 8-10 PREP 25 mins plus at least 2 hrs chilling COOK 10 mins EASY VFor the base50g dark chocolate, broken into pieces75g butter225g digestive biscuits (15 biscuits), finely crushedFor the filling350g dark chocolate, broken into pieces100g butter1 heaped tsp instant coffee granules dissolved in 1 tsp boiling water250ml double cream200g full-fat crème…5 min
Good Food |March 2019Pan-fry fish1 Trim each of your fish fillets to the same shape and size, then score the skin slightly by making five or six cuts at around 1cm intervals.2 Season the fish with a little pepper and generously sprinkle the skin with flaky sea salt.3 Heat some oil in a non-stick frying pan. Lay the fish in the pan, skin-side down, and press down with your fingers or a fish slice to stop the fillets curling up.4 Reduce to a medium heat and cook the fillets for 3-4 mins until the flesh is about two-thirds of the way cooked and the skin is crisp.5 Flip the fillets over and fry for a further 2 mins until just done, basting the skin with the oil in the pan as it cooks.6 Transfer…1 min
Good Food |March 2019Pressure cookersStar buyPrestige Smart Plus pressure cooker£80 prestige.co.ukPrestige gets top marks for its thorough explanations, giving the user a broad understanding of how different foods cook. We liked the simplicity and sleekness of the design, as well as its comparatively lightweight feel. Other features include a visual pressure indicator, non-stick surface and two steam settings.Family favouriteKuhn Rikon Duromatic micro pressure cooker£79.95 kuhnrikon.co.ukOut of all the pressure cookers we tried, this was by far the easiest, from first opening the box to getting a meal on the table. Set the lightweight cooker in the microwave and you’ll have your food ready in no time. Comes with a recipe booklet and trivet.Best multi-purposeMorphy Richards MyPot pressure cooker£69 johnlewis.comDebating whether to buy a pressure, rice or slow cooker? This one ticks all three boxes…1 min
Good Food |March 2019Washed rind cheeseStinking bishopA powerful milky stench with a flavour that isn’t too aggressive – think creamy, grassy, fermented curd. Choose one without a crumbly centre.Époisses de BourgogneSharp, salty, sweet, meaty and creamy. For optimum flavour, look for a dark, fragile rind with an almost liquid breakdown of the cheese inside.MorbierLook for a leathery orange rind, lactic fermented smell and an ash line running across the cheese. It should taste salty, milky and sweet, but also slightly meaty.For more information, visit academyofcheese.org . Cheeses supplied by paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk…1 min
Good Food |March 2019TO JOE’S BASIC PASTA DOUGH1 Tip the flours onto your work surface, then make a well in the middle. Crack in the eggs and pour in the water.2 Mix the eggs and water into the flour with a fork until the mixture comes together as a ball. Add more water if it’s too dry or more flour if it’s too wet.3 Knead the dough, pressing away from you with the palm of one hand while the other hand keeps the dough still and folds it slightly back.4 Rest the pasta for 30 mins. Wrap it in a barely damp towel and leave in a cool place until you’re ready to roll it out using either a rolling pin or a pasta machine.…1 min
Good Food |March 2019A nation of dog loversA third of Good Food readers own a dog – that’s more than the national average – with 9 per cent owning more than two. But would they cook a meal for them? We asked our followers on Instagram two questions about how far they’d go to cook for their canines. Here’s how you voted:@bbcgoodfoodWould you cook for your dog? yes 59% (1,038 votes)no 41% (729 votes)Would you cook a meal that you could share with your dog? yes 47% (865 votes)no 53% (989 votes)Other research, by award-winning global market research company, Mintel, reveals:20% of dog owners would be interested in information on cooking for their pet38% of dog owners agree that feeding a pet leftovers is a good way to save money31% prepare food for their dogs instead of…1 min
Good Food |March 2019Tony Naylor It’s all a matter of tasting menusFor the past decade, the tasting menu has been the most revered of dining formats. In the 2000s, the world’s best restaurants, such as El Bulli and The Fat Duck, took French fine dining’s menu dégustation and transformed it into a theatrical tour de force: a marathon exploration of a chef’s creative vision across 13, 24 or even 30-plus courses. For the hardcore, it became the ultimate, daring way to eat.But now that ground is shifting. The tasting menu is losing its lustre. There were always naysayers – people who refused to be taken on a four-hour ‘journey’, who wanted to choose three courses, thank you – but now serious chefs are wobbling, too.Last April, the two-Michelin-star Midsummer House in Cambridge ditched its tasting menus for à la carte. ‘My…3 min
Good Food |March 2019Victoria Moore Treat your mum to sauvignon blanc“Thescent leapsout ofthe glass,vivid andbold, allwhite currants, asparagus andlemon”The wind is so strong it snatches the stream of wine as it’s poured, splashing it left and right before it can reach the glass. The flapping parasols have to come down before they knock someone out. So we stand and watch the white clouds pouring over Chapman’s Peak, racing through the clear air to engulf us. Such weather– although unusual for the season – is a reminder that, contrary to popular belief, Cape vineyards do not all roast under a hot sun. At altitude, and in coastal areas, South Africa has the perfect conditions to make crisp, refreshing white wine.I think we all know someone with a sauvignon blanc obsession. And if you don’t, then I can probably notch up enough…2 min
Good Food |March 2019THE CATSKILLSDriving north out of Manhattan, it doesn’t take long before the landscape begins to change dramatically. Skyscrapers are replaced by pine-strewn mountain peaks and the traffic-clogged avenues empty out into small country back roads that wind their way upstate to the Catskills. With acres of farmland, independent food producers, breweries, and acclaimed new restaurants, it has fast become an essential destination for food lovers. For the first half of the 20th century, the area was a popular vacation spot for wealthy New Yorkers looking to escape the summer heat, but as the beaches of the Hamptons became more fashionable, the Catskills slowly fell into decline.“The area was once a popular vacation spot for wealthy New Yorkers”In the last few years, however, New Yorkers have flocked to the Catskills again, drawn…2 min
Good Food |March 2019WHERE TO STAYOne of the smartest hotels in the area, Scribner’s Catskill Lodge (scribnerslodge.com) is part Scandi-cool and part ski lodge. Fireplaces, comfy sofas and a pool table can be found in the communal areas, while the minimalist and comfy 38 rooms all have postcard views of nearby Hunter Mountain. Outside, there’s a heated pool and a campfire where guests gather to make s’mores each night. (Rooms from £114 per night.) Alternatively, The DeBruce (thedebruce.com), set in a grand old boarding house amongst acres of wilderness, offers a glimpse of the region’s heyday. The charmingly creaky building dates from 1880 but was recently given a new lease of life, with wooden floors, comfy leather armchairs and walls strewn with vintage map prints. Rooms from £289 per night.…1 min
Good Food |March 2019HoppersSri Lankan cuisine has been creeping into the national consciousness for a while now, and Hoppers has played no small a part in introducing Londoners to the eponymous rice-based lacy pancake. There are two venues, one in Soho and the other at St Christopher’s Place, which is slightly larger and split over two floors. Take friends for sharing food that includes short eats, such as mutton rolls, or kothu (chopped roti and lamb or vegetables) with plenty of chutneys and sambols. The lunch plate at £17 includes a curry, rice and sides, or for more leisurely dining, there’s a rich lamb shank kari (or curry, see p142) and a 42-hour roast Sri Lankan lamb shoulder at £44 per head that deserves to be lingered over. There’s also a Sunday brunch…6 min
Good Food |March 2019MARKETPLACE HIGHLIGHTSEtherington’s Farm Shop of CornwallWe have a selection of Meat Boxes to cater for your needs from Student Survival Meat Boxes to quality West Country Connoisseur Steak Boxes. Prices start at £49.99 including delivery from our shop in Wheal Rose in Cornwall. Etheringtons is an award-winning Farm Shop, worth a visit if you are holidaying in Mid to West Cornwall. We are also renowned for our legendary Cornish Pasty.01209 890555 etherington-meats.co.ukPotter and MoochExplore our brand new collection of Ear Wings climbing earrings designed for a single piercing. Each pair is handmade in England on either 925 Sterling Silver, 14ct Rose or Yellow Gold-Filled wires with SWAROVSKI Elements. Hypo-allergenic and Nickel free. From £22 per pair. Visit our website or call for a brochure. Featured design is Sterling Silver with SWAROVSKI…2 min
Good Food |March 2019Just 5 ingredientsChocolate stout puddingsSERVES 4 PREP 25 mins plus 1 hr chilling COOK 18 mins EASY V150g unsalted butter, plus extra for the ramekins200g dark chocolate (70% cocoa), roughly chopped90g golden caster sugar3 large eggs90ml stout (Guinness works well)clotted cream or thick double cream, to serve (optional)1 Butter four 9 x 5cm ramekins and set aside. Tip the butter, chocolate and a generous pinch of salt into a heatproof bowl. Set over a small pan of just-simmering water and stir until melted, then remove from the heat and leave to cool a little.2 Put the sugar and eggs in a large mixing bowl and beat with an electric whisk until pale, almost doubled in volume and thick enough to leave a trail when the beaters are lifted up. Gently fold in…1 min
Good Food |March 2019Lemon mille crêpe cakeThis month’s food news, trends, Shelina Permalloo’s tropical cake, top eats in Belfast and what’s on the BBC this monthIf you are looking for a really show-off way to celebrate Pancake Day (on 5 March), then opt for a mille crêpe cake, a multi-layered pancake cake that’s having a moment in the patisserie world. Twelve or more layers of the thinnest crêpes possible are layered with flavoured creme patissière or cream to make a cake that is then sliced into neat portions. Japanese Kova in Soho (kovapatisserie.com) is famous for their Grinch-green matcha version, matcha is also on the menu at Sakurado in Kensington (sakurado.co.uk) and Menagerie in Manchester (menagerierestaurant.co.uk), but new Mille in Paddington (patisseriemille.com) is the first dedicated mille crêpes emporium with eight flavours on offer – we…3 min
Good Food |March 2019Vegan cheese• How popular it isAccording to Google trends data, searches for ‘vegan cheese’ have increased by 350% in the past five years and in 2017, searches for ‘vegan cheese’ were almost double the number of searches for ‘cheddar cheese’.• How it’s madeThese days, you can find dairy-free alternatives to all kinds of cheese. Vegan cheeses can be made from a wide range of different base ingredients but the most common are soy, tofu, coconut oil and nuts.• What it tastes likeWe conducted a blind taste test to find the best vegan alternatives to cheddar, parmesan, mozzarella, feta and cream cheese. Our overall favourite was Creamy Sheese, a cream cheese (£2.48, 225g, buteisland.com).For the full results, see bbcgoodfood.com/review/best-vegan-cheese.…1 min
Good Food |March 2019tv editor’s picksGREAT BRITISH MENUThe competing chefs will have so much fun with this year’s British pop music theme as they create a menu to mark 50 years since The Beatles’ last live performance. Expect dishes like Meat Loaf with Black Eyed Peas and Red Hot Chilli Peppers followed by Vanilla Ice with Hot Chocolate... Starts this month on BBC Two.MARY BERRY’S QUICK COOKINGMary lets her hair down in a new series. Her search for speedy dishes takes her to Marrakesh medinas and fiery Chinatown kitchens. Then, after cooking for foodies at Camp Bestival, she takes to the stage to drum for Rick Astley! Starts this month on BBC One. See page 90 for Mary’s desserts.…1 min
Good Food |March 2019Retro favouritesBlue lagoonWe’ve kept the shocking blue of the curaçao but replaced lemonade with fresh citrus juice and soda water for a refreshing twist on this boozy classic.SERVES 4 PREP 5 mins EASY Vfew handfuls ice cubes and some crushed ice100ml blue curaçao100ml vodka1 lemon, juiced1 orange, juiced1 lime, juiced8 maraschino cherries and1 tsp of the syrup200ml soda water1 Put the ice cubes in a large jug. Pour over the curaçao, vodka, fruit juices and 1 tsp syrup from the cherries. Stir until the outside of the glass feels cold.2 Half-fill four hurricane glasses with crushed ice, then strain in the co*cktail.3 Top up the glasses with the soda water and gently stir, then garnish with the maraschino cherries.GOOD TO KNOW vegan • gluten freePER SERVING 162 kcals • fat none…2 min
Good Food |March 2019Get the most from your roastWARM YOUR PLATESWarm serving plates and bowls before taking them to the table so your meals are piping hot, this is particularly important when serving lamb as any fat will start to set and solidify on a cold plate. Once you’ve switched off the oven, leave it to cool a bit, then put the plates in to warm. Arrange them in several stacks and rotate them so they all get equally warm. The easiest way to warm a gravy boat is to fill it with boiling water and then tip out before adding gravy.OVEN TEMPERATURESCheck your oven temperature by using a thermometer; many ovens run a little low or high and if you know your oven does this, you can adjust the timings. The type of thermometer that hangs in…2 min
Good Food |March 2019share your recipeIrish malted breadSERVES 8-10 PREP 15 mins plus 3 hrs proving COOK 25 mins EASY V270g strong brown bread flour, plus extra for dusting40g malted bread flour4g fast-action dried yeast55g malt extract2/3 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for the tin1 Tip both flours into a bowl, then add2/3 tsp salt to one side of the bowl and the yeast to the other side. Mix well.2 Put the malt extract in a separate bowl, then pour in the olive oil and 145ml tepid water and stir until the extract dissolves. Tip into the bowl with the flour mix.3 Bring the mixture together with your hands to make a rough dough. Tip out onto a surface lightly dusted with flour and knead for 10 mins until you have a smooth dough. Put…1 min
Good Food |March 2019beef bourguignonSlow cooker beef bourguignonSERVES 6-8 PREP 20 mins COOK 6-8 hrs EASY *3 tbsp vegetable oil1.5kg stewing or braising steak, cut into small chunks2 large onions, chopped2 carrots, chopped2 celery stalks, chopped2 bay leaves2 thyme or rosemary sprigs3 tbsp plain flour750ml bottle red wine1 beef stock cube1 tsp caster sugar2 tbsp tomato purée100g unsmoked bacon lardons6 small shallots or baby onions, halved or quartered300g closed cup mushrooms, halved or quarteredmashed potatoes or crusty bread, to serve1 Turn the slow cooker to low and heat 2 tbsp of the oil in a large frying pan. Season the meat and fry for 3-4 mins in batches until browned all over, scooping out each batch with a slotted spoon and transferring the browned meat to a plate.2 Tip the onion, carrot and celery…2 min
Good Food |March 2019Dates for your diary Foraging coursesVarious dates. Adele Nozedar has written three books on foraging: Foraging With Kids; The Garden Forager; and The Hedgerow Handbook, and runs courses in and around the Brecon Beacons.See breconbeaconsforaging.com.St David’s Day1 March. Visit bbcgoodfood.com/recipes/collection/st-davids-day for lots of Welsh-themed recipes.Pancake Day5 March. See bbcgoodfood.com for our pancake recipes and turn to page 54 for four tasty fillings.St Patrick’s Day17 March. Find our chocolate stout pudding on page 154 and Irish bread recipe on page 45.Mother’s Day31 March. Try Mary Berry’s Mother’s Day bakes on page 90.…1 min
See Also
What Is Reactive Hypoglycemia?Good Food |March 2019bake for charitySticky cherry Bakewell bunsSERVES 12 PREP 30 mins COOK 25 mins plus at least 21/2 hrs proving EASY V500g pack white bread mix100g golden caster sugar200-250ml warm milk50g salted butter, melted1 medium egg, lightly beaten3 tsp almond essence plain flour, for dusting a little oil, for proving180g raspberry jam250g icing sugar12 glacé cherries30g flaked almonds, toasted (optional)1 Combine the bread mix and caster sugar in a large bowl. Make a well in the centre and pour in 200ml of the milk, the melted butter, egg and half the almond essence, then mix together swiftly with a wooden spoon. If it feels a little dry, add a dash more milk. Knead on a lightly floured surface for 5-10 mins until you have a dough that is smooth and springy. Put the…2 min
Good Food |March 2019Small plates, big flavorsWhen I opened my second pub, The Coach, I wanted it to be an informal dining space that didn’t take bookings, but the food still needed to be special. My solution was small-plate dining. This is a lovely way to cook for friends. Make as many or as few dishes as you want and just place them in the middle of the table for everyone to graze on, like tapas. Here, I’ve tried to cover all bases and offer you four very different plates that could each be served as a course in their own right. I also bulk it out with good charcuterie, cheese and olives. When I opened The Coach, we were one of the first places to offer food like this, now are , seasyseewhy.Good Food contributing…7 min
Good Food |March 2019FISHCAKESHere, I give a couple of dishes a twist in one recipe. I’ve given fishcakes a makeover by packing them with fish, so they are all killer and no filler, plus I’ve upped the stakes with the addition of crabmeat, then coated them in panko breadcrumbs, which go extra crunchy. Next, as a nod to the retro classic cod in white sauce, and so as not to waste the fish-poaching liquid, which is essentially a fish stock, I’ve made a velvety sauce that I’ve spiked with all the tangy bits you get in a tartare sauce.Luxury fishcakes with tartare veloutéBaking the potato, rather than boiling it, for the fishcake base results in a dryer mash that gives the finished cake more structure.SERVES 6 PREP 40 mins COOK 1 hr 40…3 min
Good Food |March 2019Chicken katsu currySERVES 4 PREP 20 mins plus marinating COOK 45 mins EASY *What It’s easy to see why as a nation we’ve adopted this classic Japanese dish. The crunchy fried chicken delivers texture, while the accompanying curry sauce is warmly spiced and reminiscent of a chip shop favourite.How We’ve thought about the process of crumbing and added an extra step that makes the chicken extra crisp and tender. We’ve also taken on the Japanese concept of umami, meaning savouriness, and added layers of seasoning throughout the recipe.What to buyFor the katsu2 large chicken breasts 400ml milk100g plain flour2 eggs, beaten150g panko or coarse dried breadcrumbs sprinkling shichimi togarashi or chilli powder, plus extra to serve splash of soy sauce sunflower oil, for fryingFor the curry sauce50g butter1 large carrot, chopped 1…4 min
Good Food |March 2019WHY BUY A PRESSURE COOKER?What pressure cooker should I buy?Look for a pressure cooker with two side handles, so it’s easy to lift when full. If you’re short on space, get one with foldable handles. Recipes often require a steaming basket or cooking rack, so choosing a cooker with these accessories included will save time and money.WHAT WE LOOKED FORSize and storageWe wanted pressure cookers that were compact and easy to store.DesignWe assessed the aesthetic credentials of each model.CookingWe put the cookers through their paces with a variety of recipes, including meats that take a long time to tenderise and recipes with a lot of liquid to see if it escaped on pressure release.Ease of useWe looked at how easy it was to open and close, and assessed the straightforwardness of its functions and…1 min
Good Food |March 2019In depth: olivesThe varietiesKalamata The slightly bitter, salty flavour goes well with fresh, crisp ingredients like cucumber. The olive of choice for a Greek salad.Nocellara del Belice These Sicilian favourites have a mild flavour and are perfect for serving as a bar snack.Gordal Big, meaty and green, these are the tapas olives of choice in southern Spain. Because of their size, they’re often available in stuffed varieties.Niçoise These southern French olives are used to make tapenade. They can be eaten on their own, but they work best as a flavour-boosting cooking ingredient.Beldi Salted and dried, these North African olives pack an astringent punch of flavour that pairs well with chicken and lamb.What’s inside?Pitted olives are easier to eat – and buying them might save you a job in the kitchen – but…1 min
Good Food |March 2019The Modern Italian Cook by Joe TrivelliWhy would anyone make their own pasta? There’s so much variety of both fresh and dried in the shops – not to mention the floury, eggy mess involved – that surely it’s a waste of time and energy to make it yourself?Well, indeed. I went through a pasta-making phase around five years ago when my wife bought me a machine for Christmas. I was a stay-at-home dad to my three kids at the time so approached it with gusto, churning out sheets and ribbons of pasta, noon and night, hanging them on hastily assembled washing lines around our cramped flat. The experience put us all off pasta to the extent that we now only eat it a couple of times a month.The kids are older now, though, and I’m (slightly)…2 min
Good Food |March 2019Pip LaceyWhat’s your cooking ‘cheat’?You can save a split butter-based sauce by pouring it into a searing hot pan and whisking furiously.It shouldn’t work, but it does.What piece of kit or utensil should every home have?A decent peeler. My mum still uses a knife, and the time it takes her – and the amount of food she wastes – is frightening.What’s your secret seasoning?Japanese sansho pepper (right). It’s similar to Sichuan pepper but the heat is milder and it has a fruity flavour.What’s the most common cooking mistake?Not browning meat properly. When you brown meat off for a stew or braise, don’t overcrowd the pan; also, sear the meat in batches so each piece has plenty of colour. It can take a while but it makes all the difference.What’s your go-to…2 min
Good Food |March 2019Emma Freud cooks for Lorraine PascaleLorraine Pascale began her professional life as a model where she became the first black woman to grace the cover of American Elle. As a baker, she presented Baking Made Easy on BBC Two, opened her own cake shop and has written eight cookbooks. Now on a new mission, she created a plant-based recipe for me to cook. We talked and went deep…Emma I’ve read so many things you’ve written or broadcast, and what unites them is the way you relentlessly try to make people feel better. Are you on a mission to heal?Lorraine I had a challenging start in life, like so many people. And if you’ve got this amazing platform, you have to use it for good. It’s almost rude not to.E Well, that’s clearly how you see…6 min
Good Food |March 2019Joanna Blythman Are we now too busy to chew?“Liquid nutrition used to be the sort of thing you’d eat in extremis. So how did it suddenly become cool?”These days, the business of feeding ourselves can seem hard and confusing. We yearn for a simple solution, something healthy that saves us from having to think about food, let alone prepare it. Yet I’m still aghast at the new wave of ‘meal replacement’ protein shakes that are gaining ground with some people, especially those who are concerned with their looks, their fitness, and, as they see it, are far too busy to cook.It honestly never occurred to me that we’d see a revival in ‘liquid nutrition’ meal alternatives. All you do is add water to the powder in the packet, get the resulting lumpy gloop down your gullet, and, according…3 min
Good Food |March 2019How to live like a localShopping local is an absolute must in the Catskills, with many farms also doubling as shops selling their produce direct. Stores such as Main Street Farm (mainstreetfarm.com) in Livingston Manor act as a showcase for the region’s best food and drink.Don’t be surprised if you get handed a glass of cider with breakfast, as it will likely be a freshly pressed, glass of juice. Here, the boozy version is known as ‘hard cider’ and there’s no better place to get a taste than at the Orchard Hill (orchardhillnyc.com) tap room, attached to the family-run Soons Orchard.Hiking is very popular, and the best place to stock up on sandwiches for the day is Circle W Market (circlewmarket.com), where you can grab everything from smoked salmon bagels to pumpkin doughnuts.Photographs GETTY IMAGES,…1 min
Good Food |March 2019Luxury getawaysMerlin Labron-Johnson at Rocca delle Tre Contrade A week-long luxury cooking experience in SicilyTreat yourself to the delights of springtime Sicily and hone your culinary skills under the guidance of chef Merlin Labron-Johnson (under whose aegis London restaurant Portland gained a Michelin star). Staying at the grand Rocca delle Tre Contrade villa on the east of the island, you’ll spend your time learning how to make Sicilian dishes through hands-on classes, cooking demonstrations and market visits while enjoying five-star surroundings and meals.The blush-pink private villa and former wine estate of Rocca delle Tre Contrade is an impressive sight, perched on a hilltop, surrounded by palm trees, bougainvillea and jasmine, it has panoramic views of the blue Ionian Sea and Mount Etna. This is your home for an all-inclusive foodie experience,…7 min
Good Food |March 2019Cook of the Year1st And the winner is...Helen Boyce, Northern IrelandHelen is a prison officer cook who works with a team of inmates at Hydebank Wood women’s prison and young offenders’ centre in Northern Ireland. After launching an initiative that involved prisoners producing breakfast baps to sell to staff and inmates, Hydebank Wood applied for – and was granted – social enterprise funding, which allowed for the creation of The Cabin, a fully operational pop-up café. Helen’s team is made up entirely of female prisoners, to whom she teaches cooking and serving skills. Under Helen’s guidance, they run an efficient catering operation, serving the prison staff and inmates. As well as practical training, many inmates have been given a sense of purpose. Helen explains: ‘Some of the girls don’t know a normal job…1 min
Good Food |March 2019Have you tried date molasses?You may already have cooked with pomegranate molasses (if not, turn to page 84 for Diana Henry’s recipes), but the latest sticky sweet cooking ingredient is date molasses.What is it?A dark, thick and sticky syrup made from the juice of pressed dates.What does it taste like?Incredibly sweet and treacly, like a dark caramel.What can I do with it?Its intense sweetness and syrupy texture means it lends itself well to use in sweet dishes – drizzle it over pancakes or into porridge, swirl through yogurt or use as a sweetener in smoothies, desserts, cakes and bakes. It’s also great, used sparingly, in savoury dishes including as a glaze for grilled or barbecued meat, or mixed into salad dressings.Where can I get it?You can buy Odysea date molasses in Sainsbury’s stores (250ml,…1 min
Good Food |March 2019BOOKS FOR COOKSCrumb by Richard BertinetBread genius Richard Bertinet makes baking easy with his step-by-step recipes. Once you’ve mastered the essential loaves, try your hand at brioches, plaits, crumpets and flatbreads, and experiment with different ferments. If you’ve got a sweet tooth, there’s plenty to try from a stunning plum tart to a Russian plait stuffed with chocolate crème pâtissière. A beautiful book guaranteed to improve your baking technique. £25, Kyle BooksMust-try recipe Sourdough pizzaNational Trust Comfort FoodComfort food isn’t just for winter – cook dishes you crave all year round with this new book from the National Trust. Divided into seasons, there’s green risotto and lighter lunches in spring, summery salads and picnic pies, autumnal stews and curries; and warming casseroles and soups for winter. Plus, irresistible bakes and desserts including…1 min
Good Food |March 2019JOIN US FOR LUNCH WITH BBC CHEF TOM KERRIDGEEnjoy a specially devised three-course sharing menu with BBC chef Tom Kerridge at his gastropub, The Coach, in picturesque Marlow, Buckinghamshire. Within its relaxed, informal surroudings, Tom showcases the finest local ingredients in a range of modern French-British small plates.An open Tom De Keyser and you’ll be seated around the bar or at communal tables, giving you the chance to meet members of the Good Food team and fellow subscribers to experience the warm, convivial atmosphere that sets The Coach apart. You’ll be greeted with a glass of cider and after a lunch of sharing plates, you’ll receive a foodie goody bag worth £25 to take home.Turn to page 80 for a selection of Tom’s small plates to make at home.@TheCoachMarlowDATE 30 April 2019TIME 1-4pmPLACE The Coach, Marlow, thecoachmarlow.co.ukPRICE £90…1 min
Good Food |March 2019vegetable refusersthe dilemmaMy child won’t eat vegetables.the solutionServe vegetables in a variety of ways. Purées and sauces are fine but try to include whole and chopped vegetables as part of their meals, too. Even if they refuse to eat them, they’ll soon become the norm and hopefully your kids will learn to love them.Whether they start out happily munching broccoli from a young age or have always refused to eat their greens, most children will go through a stage where they won’t eat something, and vegetables are usually enemy number one. Getting the good stuff into your little ones can seem like a never-ending battle, so it’s not surprising that some parents sneak ‘hidden’ veg into their kid’s dinners. The topic is hotly debated – one camp thinks that hiding vegetables…3 min
Good Food |March 2019spinachWe can buy bags of ready-washed spinach all year round at the supermarket. There’s nothing wrong with that – I’ve often found myself flinging it into my shopping basket at the end of a hectic day, desperate to get some goodness into my dinner. There is, however, a marked difference between the plastic bags of spinach found on supermarket shelves and the fresh stuff bought in muddy bunches from the greengrocer’s or farmers’ market or, even better, harvested from your own crop. The earthy, mineral, slightly bitter flavour of this leafy green comes through in the just-picked stuff, so try to seek some out now while it’s in season and at its best.“I’m a total allotment novice, but spinach is one of the things I’ve found success with”I know it’s…5 min
Good Food |March 2019march notesIt’s greens o’clock, and what a long time coming it has been. I absolutely love root vegetables and all the varieties of brassicas we grow so well here in the UK, but I can’t deny what a welcome sight these young, fresh greens bring to the table. Our food editor Barney Desmazery heads off on holiday to Wales around this time every year, and usually comes back with a bag full of foraged wild garlic – it’s like Christmas in an office full of food nerds.If you’re going to head out foraging, please make sure you know your stuff. Be sure to get permission from the land owner and, if you’re new to foraging, take someone with you who knows what you can and cannot take. Better still, why not…5 min
Good Food |March 2019newsTREND RECIPECoconut flour pancakesMAKES 10-12 PREP 10 mins COOK 5 mins EASY V2 eggs, separated3 tbsp coconut flour1 tsp gluten-free baking powder1 tsp cinnamon150ml milk of your choice2 tsp maple syrup150g frozen berries1 Whisk the egg whites in a clean bowl until they reach stiff peaks. Put the coconut flour, baking powder, cinnamon, egg yolks, milk, 1 tsp maple syrup and a pinch of salt in a bowl and whisk to a smooth batter. Carefully fold in the egg whites, trying to keep in as much air in as possible.2 Heat a non-stick pan over a medium heat. Add tablespoons of the batter at a time to create small pancakes. Cook for 1-2 mins until bubbles appear on the surface. Flip and cook for another 30 seconds. Repeat with the…1 min
Good Food |March 2019PASSION FOR POMEGRANATEMiddle Eastern food was the first cuisine I fell in love with when I arrived in London in 1985. I’d go to a little row of shops in Kensington, usually in the evening when they turned on the fairy lights above the name of each shop. There was a Persian restaurant; a pastry shop with a window full of diamond-shaped lozenges of baklava and pistachio-stuffed fingers of filo; and a grocer that sold everything from fat, honeyed quinces and bouquets of dill to tins of caviar from the Caspian Sea. There were boxes, jars, packets and bottles that could take you to places with turquoise skies. Claudia Roden’s descriptions of the food and the gatherings she had grown up with in the Middle East made me want to understand, smell,…8 min
Good Food |March 2019TRES LECHE CAKESERVES 16 PREP 30 mins plus cooling COOK 40-45 mins MORE EFFORT Vflavourless oil, for the tin4 eggs, separated200g caster sugar1 tsp vanilla extract200g plain flour1 tsp baking powder100ml milk410g can evaporated milk200ml sweetened condensed milk300ml double cream2 tbsp icing sugar pinch cinnamon1 Heat oven to 180C/160C fan/ gas 4. Lightly oil and line the base and sides of a 20cm square cake tin.2 Put the egg whites in a large bowl with a pinch of salt. Beat with an electric hand whisk until foamy, about 3 mins. Keep mixing while you add 150g of the sugar, a spoonful at a time, until thick and glossy.3 In another bowl, mix the egg yolks, remaining sugar and vanilla (no need to clean the beaters first) for 2 mins, or until pale…2 min
Good Food |March 2019Sponge cakesPoints to rememberSponge cakes are easy to make, as long as these key aspects are right: Temperatures The eggs and butter should be at room temperature when they’re mixed. If the butter is too cold and hard, it won’t mix well; if it’s too warm, or is starting to melt, the mix will curdle. The oven needs to be heated to the right temperature before the cake goes in the oven.Timings Baking powder is ‘activated’ as soon as it’s combined with other ingredients, so it’s important to bake the cake as soon as the mixture is in the tin. Old baking powder won’t be as effective, and may not even work, so always check the use-by date on the packet.What’s gone wrong?If at first you don’t succeed, here are the…3 min
Good Food |March 2019Waste less foodButterscotch brûlée rice puddingScrape any leftover rice pudding from p88 into a shallow, heatproof serving dish. Scatter with light muscovado sugar, then grill or blowtorch until sizzling and just starting to burn. Leave to cool until the sugar crisps up.Pulled brisket tacosSeason any leftover beef brisket sauce from p28 with cumin, ground coriander and chilli. Reheat any of the leftover beef in the sauce, then pile into tacos or tortillas and top with a squeeze of lime, sliced red onion, grated cheese and any other fillings you like.Quick hotpotSlice any leftover lamb from p30. Pack into an ovenproof dish and dampen with vegetable or lamb stock. Scatter over any leftover slices of hasselback potatoes, brush with melted butter and bake at 200C/180C fan/gas 6 for 30 mins until crisp on…1 min
Good Food |March 2019BurmeseMohingaA rice noodle and fish soup, cooked with lemongrass, shallots, garlic, ginger, fish sauce, turmeric and black pepper and garnished with boiled eggs. Often referred to as the national dish of Myanmar, it’s eaten all over the country, mainly for breakfast. It’s traditionally made with catfish, but mackerel can also be used.Lahpet thohk (‘tea leaf salad’)The dish our restaurant is named after. Full of umami and layers of texture, this salad is the epitome of a power lunch, with the tea leaves adding a caffeine hit. Key ingredients include fermented tea leaves, tomatoes, cabbage, fresh chilli, raw garlic, dried shrimps and double-fried bean mixture. It’s then dressed in peanut oil, fish sauce or salt and lime juice and topped with sesame seeds.BalachaungThis is a traditional spicy condiment made from a…2 min
Good Food |March 2019MAKE THIS RECIPERicotta-filled ravioli with simple tomato sauceSERVES 8 PREP 40 mins COOK 5 mins V2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil2 garlic cloves, finely sliced1 chilli, finely chopped3 basil leaves (optional)800g passata350g ‘00’ flour350g semola flour, plus extra for dusting2-3 eggs4 parsley sprigs, chopped1kg ricotta salted ricotta or mature hard pecorino, finely grated1 To make the sauce, heat the oil in a pan and fry the garlic with a pinch of salt. When opaque, add the chilli, basil and passata and simmer over a low heat until well cooked – you want it to be thick and deep in colour.2 To make the dough, follow the four-step instructions to the left, using the flours, 280ml water and 2 of the eggs.3 While the dough is resting, make the filling. Use a fork…2 min
Good Food |March 2019Would you cook for your dog?Ididn’t set out to be a dog chef, but sometimes life is what happens while you’re making other meals. When we got our first dog, Barney – a delectable, teddy-bearish Border Terrier – 12 years ago, I did what most first-time dog owners do: I began by feeding him what his breeder fed him, then segued into a dry diet recommended by our vet.When we took him to his first puppy class, I stood in the Sunday morning drizzle of our north London park, bug-eyed with astonishment at a woman who arrived with a bag of organic, homemade liver treats. ‘Don’t let me get like that,’ I whispered to my husband.And yet, here we are. Every day, I cook for Barney and his sister Gracie, our two-year-old Dandie Dinmont Terrier.…4 min
Good Food |March 2019for Popular doggy cookbooks dinnersGive the Dog a Bone: Over 40 healthy home-cooked treats, meals and snacks for your four-legged friend by Judith Jones (£9.99, Harper Collins)Darcey the dachshund lives with actress Nicola ‘Milly’ Millbank, and is a keen treat eater. Frequently to be found on film sets and food shoots, Darcey has acquired a taste for healthy homemade snacks, and has teamed up with Milly to create this collection of her favourite recipes.Dinner for Dogs: Home cooking for a happy, healthy dog by Henrietta Morrison (£12, Ebury Press)Written by the founder of the pet food company, Lily’s Kitchen, this book is crammed with recipes for meals and treats, and has lots of advice for preparing healthy, balanced food for your dog.Dogs’ Dinners: The healthy, happy way to feed your dog by Debora Robertson…1 min
Good Food |March 2019Top 5 places to eat and drinkThe DeBruceThe signature restaurant at The DeBruce hotel is the region’s standout dining experience, with a seasonally-changing tasting menu that features locally sourced and foraged produce. Dishes may include venison tartare or a playful take on campfire food – sausage and an assortment of beans served in a mini tin. Tasting menu £96. thedebruce.comPeekamooseA husband and wife team who have worked at some of New York’s best restaurants, including Le Bernardin and Gramercy Tavern, are behind this homely wood-cabin restaurant. From local trout and homemade charcuterie, to the signature slow-braised short rib, Peekamoose delivers simple satisfaction using the best local produce around. Three courses £77. peekamooserestaurant.comProspect at Scribner’sWith floor-to-ceiling windows and an outdoor wooden deck, Prospect boasts one of the best dinner locations in the Catskills. The menu, which lists…2 min
Good Food |March 2019Best of the rest...Rose Dakuo, LondonWelcome Kitchen chef Rose cooks for migrant and refugee projects across the capital, from youth centres and soup kitchens to supper clubs, and is skilled in all manner of West African cuisines, from Senegalese and Nigerian to her native Ivorian food. Having come to the UK from the Ivory Coast as a refugee, Rose has dedicated her life to celebrating her culture’s food by sharing it with others – particularly those in need. Rose discusses how it all began: ‘When I moved to London, life was so tough – basically, I was homeless with my kids. Getting involved in my community changed my life. At first it was just language lessons we were teaching, but [then] when kids would turn up hungry, we started the Welcome Kitchen.’ welcomepresents.comSam…1 min
Good Food |March 2019your goodfoodstar letterI was so pleased to read your articles on living sustainably in February’s issue of Good Food , as this month, bucking the trend, my local council in the London Borough of Barnet has stopped collecting food waste which now has to go into the general waste bin. The same week, the local supermarket removed their plastic bag and battery collection bins – thankfully these have now been reinstated. I shall now have to investigate food composting using the very helpful pointers in your article. Thank you for a great monthly read. My mum introduced me to your magazine by buying me a subscription in the very early 2000s which I have kept up!Kirsty Johnstone, New BarnetKirsty wins 12 bottles of Villa Maria Private Bin Riesling 2018 (£10.49 per…1 min
